An induction cooktop not detecting a pan usually means the cookware isn't magnetic enough, the pan is too small for the zone, or the base isn't sitting flat and centered. If good cookware still isn't recognized, a control lock, an overheat shutdown or a failed part may be the cause.
Quick diagnosis
| Symptom | Likely cause | First thing to try |
|---|---|---|
| Pan symbol flashes, no heat | Cookware not magnetic | Hold a magnet to the bottom of the pan |
| Small pan not detected | Pan below the zone's minimum size | Move it to a smaller zone |
| Heats, then cuts in and out | Warped base or pan off-center | Use a flat-bottomed pan centered on the zone |
| Nothing responds at all | Control lock on, or liquid on the controls | Wipe the controls dry and turn off the lock |
| Shuts off during long cooking | Overheat protection or blocked cooling vents | Make sure nothing blocks the vents below or around the cooktop |
| One zone dead, others fine | Failed coil or power board | Call for service |
A closer look
Magnetic cookware
Induction heats the pan directly through a magnetic field, so the base must be magnetic. Cast iron, enameled cast iron and many stainless steel pans work. Aluminum, copper, glass and many aluminum nonstick pans don't, unless they have a magnetic plate built into the base. If a magnet sticks firmly to the bottom, the pan should work.
Size and placement
Each zone has a minimum pan size it will detect, and it varies by model and zone. A small saucepan or a stovetop espresso pot may not register on a large zone. A pan that's off-center or rocking on a warped base can drop in and out of detection.
Locks, spills and overheating
Touch controls can lock up or refuse input when wet, and many cooktops have a control lock that disables every zone. Induction electronics also generate heat and need airflow. If a drawer packed tight under the cooktop or a blocked vent keeps that air from moving, the cooktop may shut down to protect itself.
Failed parts
If several known-good pans won't register on one zone while the others work, the coil or the board that powers it may have failed. Many cooktops are hard-wired, so reset only at the breaker. A cracked glass top means stop using it and turn the power off.
Who runs into this most
New induction owners using their old cookware, cooks who use very small pots, and kitchens where the cabinet below the cooktop is stuffed full.
Prevention checklist
- •Magnet-test any pan before buying it for induction
- •Match pan size to the zone
- •Keep the controls dry while cooking
- •Keep the cooling vents clear
- •Lift pans instead of sliding them, to protect the glass
Time to call a pro
- •One zone won't detect magnetic pans that work on other zones
- •The cooktop shows a fault code (codes vary by brand and model)
- •It shuts off repeatedly with clear vents and good pans
- •The glass is cracked or chipped
Travis's rule of thumb: Before you call about induction, test the pan with a magnet. It's the simplest test in the kitchen.
Moving from radiant to induction, or the other way around? Radiant burners behave differently, so read why a glass top burner turns on and off. For a dead zone or fault code, see our cooktop repair page or call (832) 552-1615.